I know this is old, but I bought and installed a Sniper kit in 9/18. First, check to make sure that the IAC is properly mounted and connected. If you've been running a filter then you have to wonder if you have a legitimate Walbro pump.If you install a new pump and the noise is still coming from the Sniper EFI System then only the dealer who sold you your system can help you. There is a chance that the IAC is open but displaying 0% so start by putting your finger over the IAC opening. Holley will take a look and tell you you have RFI and wish you good luck in finding it. If i adjust the throttle plate screw in to bring IAC in to proper range say around 7 the engine is running around 2000 rpm. (If you do this you will need to reset the -40 degree setting mentioned at the top of this article. Have a look--I think this is going to allow you to fix your idle problem. Once you've done this, the next natural step is to transfer the learn table to the base map, then go in and smooth out the sharp edges, which are going to be at these transitional states. Be sure to re-enable it once you get your idle tuned. Also what would you say a desired idle should be for a 3 speed automatic ford? Thanks for all your help Chris! I called support line he said he would have to look into it and call back. I am having an idle issue (other than that is absolutely perfect). I chased that gremlin for about three weeks and was convinced I had a bad throttle cable. This curve runs fom -40 degrees to 260 degrees, and gradually reduces the RPM along that range. i'm having is I can't seem to get the truck to run faster than 45 mph at speeds Let me start with the engine not starting until you press the throttle. This was an issue in the earliest version of the Sniper firmware. The problem I believe this is creating is after I start vehicle (and its still in park), the IAC drops down to my hold percentage of 10% (since throttle % is not 0) before engine is warm and therefore causing the engine to stall out. That Sniper is an exclusively throttle-body based line so it made sense to include it. If it is already adding fuel, it may be worth expanding this into the area where the tip-in is occuring (and where there is no learning occuring. Intake has been on and off 3 times no change. The first place my eyes go when there is any issue with the idle is to the TPS value. And your understanding of how the throttle position affects idle is exactly correct. Drop the IAC parked position a bit at each temperature point and sort of back into the solution. Then it started behaving oddly. First thing I would check But another thing to consider is adjusting your target A/F ratio. Honestly, I've never seen this happen but if the butterflies were misaligned on the shafts it could allow too much air to enter. Reply Quote. The IAC should display a 2-8% to bring the idle up to the actual target. Is there away to lean the idle out? I don't want to go on too long here but once you know if you're trying to add or remove fuel, there are a couple of ways to go. (Don't drive and watch--get a helper!) I'd really appreciate some help. It could be that you've left a vacuum port unplugged, it could be that the throttle plates are misaligned (unlikely), it could be that your IAC is not closing properly. Am I missing something. It then idles up from 750 to 1100. Idle when warm was 850-ish and IAC 3-4 just as when I readjusted it the night before. This is normally used as an A/C idle-up circuit. All in all, considering the system has been installed for less than 2 hours drive time we're BLOWN AWAY at how quickly it is "learning" this engine. It would be possible to set up a 1D or 2D table and do something like this, so if you've gotten into these advanced setups then that would be another thing to check.If neither of these work then I'd recommend that you do a data log of the engine idling as the temperature is reaching and then exceeding 200 degrees. To do this, open up the Initial Startup gauge screen that was used in section 17.0. It could be a couple of things. Based on your situation above as well as some of other experiences, I recognized that I needed to improve my tuning procedures above to better explain what steps to take if that 10-step process doesn't completely solve the problem. That is certainly not normal! Sniper EFI offers superior throttle response and wide-open throttle power. The fuel pump is mounted under rocker panel as low as possible and far away from any heat. any ideas? After much diagnosis, I ended up replacing the intake manifold gaskets. Or, at least, it should. Thanks again. Remember that as an EFI System Pro customer you have access to me at any time via my cell phone. I appreciate the help youve given to everyone as it continually helps me! I have driven a stand-alone transmission controller for the 4L60E in my (then) Sniper-equipped '95 GMC pickup using the Sniper TPS with complete success. I did change the -40 thing also. )Since this isn't a consistent issue with all Snipers that tells me that different IAC settings tend to make the whistle. When I finished the install on my C10, I set it as follows: 13.1 at idle, 14.2 at cruise, and 12.9 at WOT. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2JpHlS1ymBc, If this is your first visit, be sure to The last pic is with the car in Drive. I believe that for the HyperSpark the Reference Angle should be 57.5. Since the load is more of a wave that increases the most initially and then decreases again, the ECU is doing really well to get the idle under control in only two or three over/under shots as you describe.You don't mention if you have your Sniper ECU controlling timing. Thank you chris for for getting back to me on this matter.I'm using russell hi pressure gas line to feed the gas up to the sniper and using the stock steel gas line that use to be the feed line for the carb to return the gas to the tank. Pricing was reasonable, shipping was prompt and Chris helped me with a wiring question during my install. Turned it off and on again. When I shut it off then start it You can re-enable this after you have completed this idle speed adjustment process. 680-700.I can't find any reason other than it looses where it is in the firmware with Or alternator? I have been able to get it pretty Drive great and idles perfect at stop signs. Comp. Took it for a lap around the block and came back. If you complete the process and find that the IAC is less than 2% at idle, repeat the process and use the set screw to make the RPM about 60 RPM below the target. Could you provide me with some things to check or some things to adjust? I'd suggest that you assume everything the previous owner did was wrong until you can prove that it was done correctly. When I covered the IAC with my finger, the RPM dropped so low it stalled. that my Air/Fuel ration was 15:1 and I believe the target is 13.5:1. We do that but most places don't. :-)Yes, learn impacts idle too, and remember the even when the basic learning is done there will continue to be some learning for changes in weather, altitude, etc.Go ahead and try a few idle settings and see how they impact the idle-speed searching. Hopefully replacing the pump again will resolve both issuesWhoa. Laptop Access They are prone to be inaccurate. Thanks for any help. What must remain foremost in your mind is that the only thing that can cause the idle to increase is additional air getting into the engine. You might even want to add our 4-foot extension harness that will allow you to connect/disconnect the display or CAN-to-USB adapter from inside the car (rather than trying to do that leaning over the engine and under the breather. Simply go to those cells, tweak them up or down as required, and the ECU should now be able to learn its way around the bog. I'm Having trouble with the Sniper on high Idle. P.S. Thanks for the info Chris. I presume your idle speed table doesn't increase at 200 degrees? My problem is low idle. Several good bits here. Free ground shipping regardless of order size! That could be a problem with the TPS or it could be some sort of throttle linkage issue. But, if the idle is so high that it is making you crazy then you might try dropping that number just a bit. I emphasize "and" because the transmission controller manufacturer I used had the TPS ground terminated within the harness to the unit's main ground, which I find to be an unthinkable choice. Cycled the ignition off. Idles ok, runs great cruising, but from a stand still or downshifting and making a turn, when I get back into it, it wants to fall on its face. What an amazing site you have here. I also raised idle at Park a bit with the idle screw. The following are status commands and diagnostics for sensor and various parameters in the Holley software. On a cold start it will idle at 750 everytime, But if its hot start it will jump upto 1600rpm for 2 seconds then come back to 750. I've read that a spacer with 4 individual holes will solve this, but after I installed the progressive linkage the noise went away!! However based on your reply I connected the Fuel Pressure gauge and Now that you've installed at least four Snipers it is going to be imperative that you learn to create and read datalogs. He has walked me through every question Iv. I have it set at 650 and it idles anywhere from 590 to 700. Shut off the engine, ensure power to the Sniper is switched off. The problem I'm having is I cant get the IAC to drop down off 100%. Holley have given a new unit. I keep doing that with the same result. I know its not flooded because I can pour a little gas in the throttle body and play with the accelerator and it will start and run fine. I would not expect that an electric fan would create a noticeable load on the engine but if it did then you'd want to set the idle screw when the fan was not running. The Sniper EFI Manal says not to but many EFI installers have informed me that the transmission only reads the 5V TPS signal from the Sniper EFI & does not draw any power so will not affect the Sniper EFI TPS output. Thank you very much. Then it will ramp down to 1200 but will not return to idle. datsun sniper efi Holley RetroBright This 1974 Datsun 620 Bulletside Cruises With The Help Of Sniper EFI Bradley Iger 01/13/2023 features Latest News sweepstakes 2023 Hemi Engine Sweepstakes Gen III Hemi Enter To Win Holley's 2023 Hemi Engine Sweepstakes For Your Chance To Win A 600+ Horsepower 392 Stroker! The tps has slotted holes, can you adjust it to get to zero? I would recommend that you call first thing in the morning, as they tend to get quite busy during the day and wait times can get long. The Sniper ECU can use the timing to help maintain the idle speed and that will definitely be useful in that transition from Park/Neutral to Drive.If you don't have ECU-controlled timing, or if you do and it's not fully compensating, it may be necessary to increase your target idle slightly. The Sniper resets the TPS to 0% each time that you key the system on. If not then you have some other issue that is behind this increased idle. After talking to Holley tech, I replaced the factory regulator and problem solved.The regulator had what appeared to be a film or something almost clear embedded in some of the screen, maybe from factory or from install, but that was my issue.PS : this page and other forums have helped me a lot. There are a few tell-tale signs that can help you diagnose the problem. Holley documentation and videos didn't work and the $300 I paid for "expert" tuning didn't work either. The fuel pressure regulator in the Sniper is fairly simple and not prone to failure, as far as I know. Does this seem reasonable and how hard will it be to get the idle and off-idle performance correct? It then started working normally again. The IAC is hanging open and not really at 0. I have seen a couple of videos on you tube of the same issue but they don't seem to have found the cure.I hope it is not a computer problem as I have already replaced the entire system because of another problem. I've been trying to correct that 1% small issue/annoyance. I can adjust at 160deg, but my fans turn on at 180deg. If there's any run time on your current setup the Sniper may have some bad learn data due to what appears to be timing issues. Either the Walbro pumps you are getting are not genuine (lots of forgeries being sold) or else you have something that is killing them. May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ. Also its extremely rich at idle. In some cases, you may only be able to put as little as 10 RPM between the hard idle and the target idle. Seems to behave more better now. There are two ways to address this--you can let the system learn or you can manually adjust the acceleration enrichment. I readjusted my IAC, now it's perfect. If you can send a data log to the vendor from who you bought your Sniper EFI System they should be willing and able to take a look and recognize RFI and then give you some ideas on solving it. When I put it in park the idle RPM was 2100-2200 each time. The car cruises fine, and if I was to keep idle at 2000rpm the issue wont happen, its only when the car tries to ramp down to idle position.Thank you for your help, any advice would be appreciated.Thank you,Eric, Whenever we see the AFR go to "Heating" that is an indication that the ECU has been reset. This will let you know at a glance if something is going awry with the fuel pump. Sniper is still learning so it will continue to improve.Second, you may have heard the phrase, "correlation is not causation." There are six different acceleration enrichment tables that you can tweak and that may be the way to go. I've not heard of any others with this exact issue so I don't think it is a common problem. If Supports up to 650hp with Four 100 Lb/Hr Injectors! The throttle plates are misaligned. I can tell you that when things aren't working the way you wanted them to work that nothing beats knowing for-sure that you don't have a fuel supply problem. Both answers you've received greatly oversimplify the truth in favor of the answerer. If I keep the rpm's up it does fine but my clutch can't keep up with this for long.Also when I cover the IAC port the engine dies. When I cover it with my hands, it gets quieter. At any rate, once the setting was moved up, the RPM jumped right to the target RPM and was solved. technical rep said "You ahve high fuel pressure". I have a Holley Sniper EFI with HyperSpark ignition. But now that Terminator X is available, I highly recommend going that route. A simple remove & clean will remedy this . I did notice that when I thought I had it set After a stall the car will restart but will be in a high idle. Worst case you'll have a spare on hand, and if the TPS is faulty you will have solved the mystery. Thanks for your very detailed question! If you can track specific engine coolant temperatures where the engine stumbles and dies that would be a good place to start. So as much as I can I have been taking off real slow and let it fall on itself to try to learn and its not learning its way out of it. In the Wizard, select the stock cam setting. Not good.There isn't set solution here that works for all engines. Thanks in advance for any advice. In fact, it is those users who seem to end up most impressed with the system. itself out and hold idleeventually stalling. Since a key cycle resets it to 0 and out to 30 or wherever It started right up and we did your idle control fix and all is good at idle. If it creates an issue (not normally the case) then you'll know. I'm thinking it could be the fuel pressure--- since I have a new Spectra EFI tank and there's been some reports of the interior coating coming off and gumming up the pump however the sniper display DOES NOT show fuel pressure.the Sniper DOES measure fuel pressure on its own - i've confirmed that with holley techs as they told me to purchase the fuel pressure gauge that can just hook up to the 1 wire gauge harness from the Sniper.

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